Arab Norman mosaics and a wild street food capital, a Greek theatre framing a live volcano, and honey coloured Baroque towns, Sicily, the gorgeous crossroads of the Mediterranean.
Into Palermo, chaotic and magnificent, where Arab, Norman and Baroque all collide. After the flight we keep it easy, a first arancina and a glass of Nero d'Avola, a wander to a faded palazzo, an early night.
The golden Byzantine mosaics of the Monreale cathedral and the Palatine Chapel, some of the finest in the world; the roaring Ballaro and Vucciria street markets, and a street food crawl, panelle, sfincione, and a cannolo filled to order.
Along the coast past the cliff town of Cefalu to Taormina, perched high above the sea, its ancient Greek theatre framing Mount Etna in the distance, the chic Corso Umberto, the little beach and bay of Isola Bella below.
Up the slopes of Etna, the biggest active volcano in Europe, the old lava flows and smoking craters, a cable car or 4x4 toward the summit zone, and a tasting at a winery on its mineral black flanks, where the vines grow in volcanic ash.
The Greek theatre at golden hour, the public gardens, a boat to the grottoes and coves below town, or the medieval eyrie of Castelmola above it. The Sicily of long lunches and longer sunsets, and a certain hotel from the television.
South to Syracuse, once the most powerful city in the Greek world, rival to Athens. The island of Ortigia, all Baroque squares and a temple turned cathedral; the vast ancient Greek theatre and the cave called the Ear of Dionysius, cut into the quarry.
Inland to the golden Baroque of the Val di Noto, Noto, Modica and Ragusa Ibla, whole towns rebuilt in flowing honey stone after the 1693 earthquake. Chocolate in Modica, a long lunch on a sun warmed piazza, the south at its sweetest.
The Ortigia market and its seafood, a swim off the rocks, an aperitivo in a Baroque square, and a last great plate of pasta alla Norma. Sicily saves its slow, golden best for the goodbye.
A last espresso and a final wander before your transfer to Catania for your flight. Sicily is its own world, Italian and not, ancient and alive, and it sends you off plotting the return.
Three ways to do the same route: Comfort, Premium or Luxe. Breakfasts in. Mix tiers city by city if you like, it is your trip.
Priced to your dates, your hotel tier and how the two of you like to travel. Ask, the first answer usually lands within minutes.
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